Beer Odyssey: Hook Norton

We’ll start this little jaunt with an old favourite, Hook Norton. This, following the sad demise of Morrell’s and Morland’s, is Oxfordshire’s oldest brewery. Your correspondent lived in Oxford for eleven years, though in those days of the tied-house system, it was rare to see any Hook Norton beer in the city. Ironically, I’ve drunk much more Hook Norton beer since living in Scotland than I ever did in my time in Oxford.

The brewery sells a wide range of bottled beers, including many seasonal and occasional brews. They don’t do mini-kegs, but sell pins of ten and twenty litres. Three are regulars: Hooky Bitter, Hooky Gold and Old Hooky. Now and then something else pops up, like Double Stout.

Hooky Bitter (3.5%)

This is almost the definition of a session beer. It’s an amber beer with a good balance of malt and hop, but a noticeably hoppy finish. There is a hint of fruitiness. Despite its relatively low strength, it has a depth of flavour and character. Most assuredly, a Mallard Tavern favourite.

Hooky Gold (4.1%)

A more recent addition to the regular beers, this is a golden (who’d have known?) ale that uses American hops. This accounts for its distinct fruity aroma and flavour. A lovely beer for the end of a warm summer day.

Old Hooky (4.6%)

This beer came along in 1977 to commemorate the Queen’s Silver Jubilee and has been around ever since. It’s darker than the above ales and there’s a hint of the winter warmer about it, with a note of dark fruit, but still a good bitterness. It’s one of those beers that tastes a bit stronger than it really is. You could easily imagine, on blind tasting, that it was above 5%.

Double Stout (4.8%)

This is something of a resurrection ale. Hook Norton brewed it for many years before discontinuing it, but stout has enjoyed – happily – something of a revival. Many of us are grateful for this trend, as breweries now offer us much nicer alternatives to the dull, mass-produced likes of Guinness, Murphy’s and Beamish. The Hook Norton version is, unlike a lot of stouts, hoppy. It makes only the occasional appearance in pins, but is most welcome when it does.

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